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It depends on how advanced you want the skin to look. The current industrial skin for instance, requires quite some editing in the HTML for it to look the way it does. And that skin I made was not for V-bulletin, bur for Invision Power Board. And even though the principle is the same, I wanted it very advanced as well, so it took a long time of puzzeling.
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That's not the way vB templates work. You don't NEED to edit the HTML, you edit the CSS, and graphics to create the "look" - editing the HTML fragments toggles the text that appears. There may be a few things that require you to edit XHTML fragments, for instance to change CSS classes to something more convenient and easy to remember, but I'm not seeing any here. Or at least not any major ones.
The basic core of the forum is the vB standard. Nothing wild has been done to it. (not trying to downplay any effort that went into making it of course)
I'd happily admit to being wrong if you can point out the modifications (I may be getting a little rusty at the whole vB editing thing, since I've not done it in ages). The only ones I can see are on the logo navbar. The rest is all pretty much standard, with the addition of some graphics.