yeah, Varrok. you trying to kill Vyrien or something? the fuck is wrong with you?
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She seemed dangerous :(
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you're not Poirot.
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You're right!
...I've gone completely nuts, stay away from me, Vyrien |
sometimes you just need reminding.
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Thanks, Mullock's Assistant.
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WHY I OUGHTA
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How has Nate not brought down the ban hammer on some of you? Is this thread protected in some alternate dimension where moderators don't exist?
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Nate's sleeping and I was busy having a nervous breakdown.
MA being back is awesome, yes, but let's not completely spam out guys. |
750W is too much you say? Shit.
I've already bought it and it arrived yesterday... Also hi MA. |
Nah, you can never have too much wattage. Remember that it only uses what your system draws from it and a little excess is very nice should you want to upgrade components in the future.
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PSUs are less efficient when they are near their minimum and maximum output, with the optimal output being somewhere in the middle. So a PSU might be only 69% efficient when it is idle. This is where the total wattage of the PSU comes into play. A 750W PSU will be lower on the efficiency scale (drawing say 10/750 watts) than a 400W PSU (10/400). The difference here is negligible of course since were probably talking about maybe 3 or 4 watt of extra usage compared to a smaller PSU. It only really matters if you have your computer on day and night. Then those few extra watts can add up over time. Anyway, the 80+ rating is more important since you really do want an efficient PSU. Though I doubt Wariopunk cares about the electric bill at this point, but I'm sure his parents do :P |
Yeah, I meant in the broad sense but you are right, the excess does add up.
Better to be overpowered than cutting it too close I think. Still, I'm running a Bulldozer fx-6100 (don't laugh at me, it was free) and a HD 6950 with dual HD monitors on a 600W Corsair Builder and I've never had any problems. |
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Oh yeah and I'm getting a 660 ti again. I cannot make up my mind! -_- |
http://www.hwcompare.com/13296/gefor...ce-gtx-660-ti/
Why would you not get the 660 Ti? It only uses 10 more watts and is quite a bit faster. |
Well. Everything has arrived, and everything is assembled.
However, I've ran into a frustrating problem. My USB OR PS/2 keyboards won't work; in fact, everything that uses USB does not work. I'm suppose to access the bios for the first time by pressing Delete, but of course I can't. The computer just powers on, shows me the motherboard screen, then restarts. Obviously it needs the OS and the motherboard CD, but I've tried inserting both but. My keyboard still doesn't work. I've also tried using a different keyboard and even changing the IMOS battery. No luck. If it's the fact my motherboard has fried. That means everything else should of too. Meaning I've wasted over £700. Argh. |
I had a similar problem with my old computer but that was when it was on its last legs. You can buy some cheap PCI USB ports or borrow some off of someone - Maybe that way you can determine if it's your BIOS which is causing the problem. Or you could simply send your motherboard back to the seller - If it is physically broken, it doesn't necessarily mean your other components are fried too unless your PSU is faulty.
Pages found on Google recommend you also remove the mobo battery for 5-10 minutes before reinserting it, rather than putting it back immediately. There's also some kind of jumper you can toggle to reset your CMOS, apparently. |
Surely if it were the motherboard the computer wouldn't do anything other than power up the fans? The motherboard screen wouldn't even come up.
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Yeah, but the motherboard could be perfectly functional except for whatever components make the USB ports function.
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True, usually clearing the CMOS does it. I'd RMA in this case.
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