Neat deal, but I have no plans to go for another graphics card. I'm sticking with Nvidia.

open a jar of gerkins
seperate the brine and thinly slice gerkins
filter brine into main hard drive
add sliced gerkins, one at a time, into disk drive
the process is complete once the computer works
if it doesn't work, add more gerkins

The components look good to me for a decent gaming computer. I'm not sure if you need a 750W PSU though. It's probably overkill. A setup like this should easily run with a 450W or 600W supply unless you plan on adding a second graphics card in the future AND overclocking the entire thing. Also make sure that, no matter what PSU you decide to get, you get one with the golden 80 plus certificate (means they are very efficient and don't waste a lot of power).

For the hard drives I would recommend getting a small SSD (60GB or so should be very affordable these days). Use that to install Windows. Then get a 1TB HDD for all your programs, games and your editing software. Then, if budget allows it, get another 1-3 TB drive to use as your video editing drive. This can hold all your raw footage, rendered footage and temp editing files. This way the editing software installation is separate from the footage used in editing, making the entire process much faster (especially with Windows running on yet another separate drive).

This setup also helps in gaming because the games won't be installed on the same drive as Windows, thus speeding up loading times in particular.

If you have money to spare by the end of all this invest it into more RAM. Never enough RAM while playing games and particularly while editing HD footage. Upgrading the CPU might help with rendering time but it's up to you to decide if that's worth the investment.

Do you want him to kill himself? You completely skipped over any mention of pickled eggs whatsoever.

oh fuck, my apologies.

grate pickled eggs over the motherboard
drink the pickled egg brine

yes thats right
DRINK IT YOU SICK FUCFTEF6MNE

If you're vegan you have to stick to consoles.

that and celery.

XBroccoli and PotatoStation.

I think PiStachion sounds bettter tastier.

I'm allergic to nuts though, at least I won't die every time I touch the XBroccoli.

yeah, Varrok. you trying to kill Vyrien or something? the fuck is wrong with you?

She seemed dangerous :(

you're not Poirot.

You're right!

...I've gone completely nuts, stay away from me, Vyrien

sometimes you just need reminding.

Thanks, Mullock's Assistant.

How has Nate not brought down the ban hammer on some of you? Is this thread protected in some alternate dimension where moderators don't exist?

Nate's sleeping and I was busy having a nervous breakdown.

MA being back is awesome, yes, but let's not completely spam out guys.

750W is too much you say? Shit.

I've already bought it and it arrived yesterday...

Also hi MA.

Nah, you can never have too much wattage. Remember that it only uses what your system draws from it and a little excess is very nice should you want to upgrade components in the future.

Not completely true. PSUs are not 100% efficient in the power they consume. Most modern power supplies are between 70% and 89% efficient. The leftover percentage is power the PSU draws from the wall that is directly converted to heat and is wasted, hence the efficiency rating.

PSUs are less efficient when they are near their minimum and maximum output, with the optimal output being somewhere in the middle. So a PSU might be only 69% efficient when it is idle. This is where the total wattage of the PSU comes into play. A 750W PSU will be lower on the efficiency scale (drawing say 10/750 watts) than a 400W PSU (10/400). The difference here is negligible of course since were probably talking about maybe 3 or 4 watt of extra usage compared to a smaller PSU. It only really matters if you have your computer on day and night. Then those few extra watts can add up over time.

Anyway, the 80+ rating is more important since you really do want an efficient PSU. Though I doubt Wariopunk cares about the electric bill at this point, but I'm sure his parents do :P

Yeah, I meant in the broad sense but you are right, the excess does add up.

Better to be overpowered than cutting it too close I think. Still, I'm running a Bulldozer fx-6100 (don't laugh at me, it was free) and a HD 6950 with dual HD monitors on a 600W Corsair Builder and I've never had any problems.

That's the thing. I kinda do. I don't want to increase the electric bill at all.

Oh yeah and I'm getting a 660 ti again. I cannot make up my mind! -_-

http://www.hwcompare.com/13296/gefor...ce-gtx-660-ti/

Why would you not get the 660 Ti? It only uses 10 more watts and is quite a bit faster.

Well. Everything has arrived, and everything is assembled.

However, I've ran into a frustrating problem. My USB OR PS/2 keyboards won't work; in fact, everything that uses USB does not work.

I'm suppose to access the bios for the first time by pressing Delete, but of course I can't. The computer just powers on, shows me the motherboard screen, then restarts. Obviously it needs the OS and the motherboard CD, but I've tried inserting both but. My keyboard still doesn't work.

I've also tried using a different keyboard and even changing the IMOS battery. No luck.

If it's the fact my motherboard has fried. That means everything else should of too. Meaning I've wasted over £700.

Argh.

I had a similar problem with my old computer but that was when it was on its last legs. You can buy some cheap PCI USB ports or borrow some off of someone - Maybe that way you can determine if it's your BIOS which is causing the problem. Or you could simply send your motherboard back to the seller - If it is physically broken, it doesn't necessarily mean your other components are fried too unless your PSU is faulty.

Pages found on Google recommend you also remove the mobo battery for 5-10 minutes before reinserting it, rather than putting it back immediately. There's also some kind of jumper you can toggle to reset your CMOS, apparently.

Surely if it were the motherboard the computer wouldn't do anything other than power up the fans? The motherboard screen wouldn't even come up.

Yeah, but the motherboard could be perfectly functional except for whatever components make the USB ports function.

True, usually clearing the CMOS does it. I'd RMA in this case.